Cold War

Here’s the scoop on ice cream vs. gelato

By LORETTA HARING

Gelato is boldly trying to infiltrate America’s love of rich, frozen treats.

And Boris Ghazarian could be considered a general in gelato’s war on American taste buds. Ghazarian is president of Berzaci, a company which manufactures the ingredients needed to make gelato. To Anne Arundel County residents, he is better known as owner and president of Aromi d’Italia, a cafe at 8 Dock St.

Aromi d’Italia has grown into the largest provider of gelato products in the industry, according to its Web site. The company also helps people develop and open their own businesses, and provides training for the production of gelato and other foods.

Gelato, quite simply, is Italian ice cream. And most food historians credit Italy with inventing ice cream, although the date ranges from the mid-1500s to sometime during the 17th century.

Ghazarian says there are three key differences between gelato and ice cream. First is butterfat content.

Regular ice cream is about 10 percent butterfat, premium about 14 percent, according to Ghazarian. But gelato has a butterfat content of only 3 to 8 percent, he says. Some fruit flavors can be as low as 1.5 percent butterfat content.

The second big difference is “overrun.” Overrun is “a measure of the volume of air whipped into the ice cream mix,” according to the National Dairy Council. The higher the quality of ice cream, the lower the overrun, the NDC states.

Artisan ice cream can have an overrun of 60 to 70 percent, Ghazarian says. Artisan gelato, on the other hand, has only about 25 to 30 percent overrun.

The most noticeable difference? “Ice cream is served hard. Gelato is semisoft.”

Because of gelato’s intense flavors and high quality, the American tradition of loading up on toppings isn’t necessary, either, says Vincenzo Assante, general manager of The Italian Market & Restaurant in Annapolis. “Much of the ice cream doesn’t taste as good without all the mixing in and topping. Our gelato is so good, you don’t want to cover up its taste.”

The Italian Market, which is owned by Assante’s father-in-law, Raymond Lubrano, offers about 24 flavors daily. The most popular among its customers are chocolate, vanilla, mint chocolate and stracciatella (Italian chocolate chip which they romantically label “Romeo and Juliet”). Pistachio and hazelnut are big sellers, too, but they are not as popular as they are in Italy. Tiramisu and caramel also are top picks, Ghazarian says.

Of the fruit flavors, both agree that any kind of berry is a hit; mango and lemon are other top sellers. Fruit flavors are especially popular in the heat of the summer, Ghazarian says.

Gelato often comes in bright, rich colors, which lead some to think “artificial.” Most gelato is made from all-natural ingredients, Gharzarian says. The rich colors and flavors of the fruit varieties come from the method of preparation; fresh fruit and natural flavorings and colorings are cooked carefully until highly concentrated.

A happy note for people who are lactose-intolerant: most fruit gelato does not contain any milk at all. Always ask to be certain, though.

Ghazarian says a common misconception is that gelato is more expensive than ice cream. “If you walk into any high-quality ice cream shop, you are going to be paying about the same for a similar quantity. It is very competitive on the market.”

Gelato is made in small batches, as needed, usually at the point of sale, so that helps keep the costs down. “There isn’t all the added storage and distribution costs you get with a lot of ice creams.”

In Italy, gelato is often eaten in a cone, Ghazarian says, but in America it is more often served in a cup with a spoon because of the softer texture. (And forgive our artistic license — you won’t find anyone in the know serving it with a traditional ice cream scoop either. )

Even the smaller size of the spoon is the traditionalist’s way to control how it is consumed. “We want you to enjoy just a little on your tongue at a time,” Ghazarian says. “Don’t try to finish the whole thing in three bites. It’s meant to be savored.”

“It’s heaven on a spoon,” he says.